Introduction
How’s your bathroom? If it’s old, tight, or missing storage, a new vanity may help. “Installing a new vanity not only improves the appearance of a bathroom, it also enhances functionality, organization, and value,” explains Re-Bath interior designer Leah Tuttleman. “If you can obtain more surface space, that’s a big bonus.”
Tuttleman recommends starting with your finances. Vanities come at many pricing points, so choose one that matches your home’s decor. Taking precise measurements and considering storage are crucial. Tuttleman recommends hiring a contractor and designer, but if you’re like me, DIYing might be beneficial.
Tradespeople like electricians don’t enjoy paying to install something they can do themselves. I’ve renovated every bathroom I’ve lived in, so I know a capable DIYer can install a new faucet, toilet, or vanity like here. Take your time, plan ahead, and use proven methods.
I’ll demonstrate Tuttleman’s design and planning ideas while installing a new vanity. Let’s begin.
Tools Needed
Adjustable wrench
Bucket of hole saw
Drill or impact driver
Pencil
Magnet ball or stud finder
A tape measure
Pipe wrench or tongue-and-groove
Torpedo level Towels
Utility knife
Materials We need 3-inch drywall screws.
Faucet assembly
Shims
Vanity silicone caulk
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Project-by-step (10)
Step 1
Plan your project
Measure the width, height, and depth restrictions of your room.
“Don’t forget to leave space for door and drawer clearances and walking paths,” advises Tuttleman.
Determine electrical outlet and switch locations and plumbing clearances.
Prepare a plan or have the numbers when you buy your vanity.
Gather materials and tools before starting your job to avoid running to the store.
Choose a faucet that suits your vanity in step 2.
Determine your ideal vanity, sink, and faucet configuration.
Tuttleman believes space matters when choosing a sink. Choose from under-mount, drop-in, vessel, or integrated sinks molded into the countertop.
Buy a faucet that matches your vanity, style, and handle configuration.
“Pre-manufactured vanity often dictates faucet hole number and spacing,” Tuttleman explains.
Step 3: Disconnect piping.
Turn off the water at the sink valve or main shutoff.
Catch P-trap and supply line water in a bucket under the valve.
Loosen the slip nut with your hands, a pipe wrench, or large tongue-and-groove pliers to disconnect the P-trap.
Not too hard. Fittings will break.
Disconnect water supply lines with an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers.
In Step 4, remove the old vanity or pedestal sink.
This requires assistance.
Cut around the old sink or vanity with a utility knife to remove it from the walls or tile.
Remove vanity wall screws and bolts.
Remove the vanity or sink from the wall and set it aside.
Paint or repair walls as needed.
In Step 5, install the vanity faucet.
Install the faucet in the countertop before installing the vanity to simplify.
Put gaskets on the vanity countertop holes and install the faucet and knobs.
Use the faucet nuts to secure as instructed.
Pro tip: Solid brass faucets function well. Tuttleman said some faucet makers are using plastic internal components to cut costs and delivery.
In Step 6, prepare the wall and vanity.
Put vanity in position and level with shims.
Mark vanity top and sides gently with a pencil.
Use the pencil marks to measure the plumbing cutouts after removing the vanity.
Make plumbing holes with a hole saw.
Mark wall studs with pencil.
My favorite stud-finding gadget is a marble-sized magnet called a “stud ball.” Every electrician I know has one. No batteries required. Don’t underestimate its power.
Step 7: Install vanities.
Comply with vanity instructions.
Slide the vanity back. Shake and level.
Screw 3″ drywall screws into the studs to mount the vanity.
Trim shims to length.
To keep water out, caulk the backsplash and trim the bottom.
In Step 8, secure the countertop to the vanity (optional).
Some vanities sell without countertops.
Test vanity countertop fit. Remove.
Apply silicone caulk or adhesive to the vanity edge (see the vanity instructions for the appropriate caulk).
Place the countertop on the vanity and press.
Let the vanity adhesive cure before using.
Step 9
Water supply with P-trap connection
Reconnect water supply lines with an adjustable wrench or tongue-and-groove pliers.
Lines with rubber gaskets don’t need Teflon tape.
Reconnect P-trap.
Start the water and check for leaks.
Step 10: FAQs
How big should my vanity be?
It depends. Powder rooms can use an 18-inch vanity, while bigger areas can use a 5-foot one. According to Tuttleman, “Size considerations, if not evaluated correctly, can create serious issues down the road,” so weigh your options.
What vanity aspects should I look for?
Storage and great workmanship are important. «Evaluate storage needs and choose a vanity with adequate storage alternatives, such as drawers, open spaces, or shelves for towels,» advises Tuttleman.
Are there building codes or regulations?
Perhaps not for a vanity exchange. “If your project requires significant plumbing, electrical wiring, or bathroom structural changes, you may need a permit,” adds Tuttleman. City codes should be checked before DIY projects.